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Doorbell Chimes Cover/Planter

This project was one of those little things that’s been an eyesore forever, and I finally found a way to make it pretty. Since I did an entryway bathroom door makeover (and still love it), I decided to use a similar look to cover our ugly, old doorbell chimes cover on the wall facing that door.

A view of a hallway featuring a bathroom door, a wall-mounted doorbell chime cover, and a ceiling light fixture.
BEFORE: Old, ugly doorbell chimes cover.

Supplies:

(As an advertising affiliate and Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. But it doesn’t cost you anything extra and helps me keep up my site!)

Tools:

  • Tape measure
  • Miter saw or hacksaw
  • Sandpaper
  • Nail gun or hammer
  • Paint brush

Step 1: Measure the spot and cut wood pieces. First, I measured the existing cover and decided to go with a new cover of 7×11. That would give me a little wiggle room for placement. I also needed to come out about 3 inches from the wall.

A close-up image of a plain, beige doorbell chime cover against a white wall, with a measuring tape placed beside it.
Measuring.

Using spare 1/8 inch plywood pieces, I cut a front piece at 7×11 using my miter saw. (This wood is thin enough that you could easily cut it with a hacksaw or other small saw.) Then I cut 2 side pieces at 3×7, and my bottom piece was 3×11.

To attach these pieces, I found some little 1×1 wood pieces and cut 4 to about 6 inches each. These go on the inside corners, so they don’t have to be perfectly even or pretty.

I sanded all of these pieces lightly to remove any rough parts.

Various pieces of wood laid out on a work surface, including plywood and wood strips, ready for a DIY project.
Wood pieces cut.

Step 2: Assemble pieces. I used my brad nailer, but you could use little nails and a hammer or even wood glue, if you have more patience than I do.

First, I attached a side piece to one of the inside corner pieces. I made sure to line up the long edges so the side piece would cover the corner piece, but I didn’t want it to overlap because the front piece would do that, hiding the side piece from the front (see picture). I also made sure to leave a little room at what would be the bottom – this would let the bottom piece fit in place so the side piece would cover/hide the bottom edge. And, I left about an inch of space at the top so the corner piece wouldn’t be visible at all from the top.

Next, I took the front piece and also attached it to the first corner piece, making sure it lined up to cover the edge of the side piece. (Again, see the picture for a visual of how all this lined up. The picture is from the bottom, showing the little bit of room I left for the bottom piece.)

A person holding a piece of cut wood at an angle, showing a joint or connection point, with a workshop background containing various wood pieces and tools.
Side and front on a corner piece.

(You may note from the pictures that I used nails that were too long, but these were easy to bend back. Again, you’re not going to see the insides of this little box you’re making. So, if you don’t have small enough nails, no worries.)

With that one side and front piece on the first corner, I nailed on the other side piece and corner piece, lining them up the same way.

Next, the bottom piece was pretty easy because it fit right at the bottom of the 3-sided box I’d made. This bottom piece also helped me be sure everything was square, because I squeezed the front and side pieces to sit right tight against the corners of the bottom piece. One little nail at each end into the corner pieces was all it took to hold this bottom piece in place.

A person holding a vertical piece of plywood, displaying its edge and grain pattern, with workshop tools in the background.
Bottom added.

From there, I could easily add the last 2 corner pieces at the back of my open box. These I made sure to place flush behind the side pieces so they didn’t stick out. I nailed them into each side first, and then I used my bottom piece to again made sure everything was square. One little nail from the bottom piece into the ends of these corner pieces held them in place.

This created a “box” with an open top and back.

Interior view of a wooden box being constructed, showing corner support pieces and nails. The box is held by a hand against a background of wood and tools.
Construction complete.

Step 3: (Optional) Add decorative parts. Just to add a little visual interest, I cut 4 pieces of 1×2 down to 7 inches, used my miter saw to create 30-degree cuts at the ends, and nailed them over the ends of my cover. This created some curves and made the whole thing look less “boxy,” plus it helped cover the nail holes and edges, making the whole cover look a little nicer. You don’t have to do this, but I liked it.

A wooden box structure prepared for staining, placed on a workbench surrounded by woodworking tools and materials, with a window in the background.
Decorative parts on.

Step 4: Stain or paint. I debated between painting this cover green (like other accents in our living room) or staining it, but I ended up using the same dark walnut stain as the door nearby – the door that gave me inspiration in the first place. I’m glad I used this stain because the wood looks surprisingly nice stained, and the color looks great against the plants I used in the final step.

Step 5: Hang the cover. Because this cover is so light, I was able to just use command strips on the back of either end. I placed mine on the 1x2s along the back, but you could use the back corner pieces instead if you didn’t want to add the 1x2s.

Interior view of a wooden box frame, featuring wood corner supports and Command strips on the sides.
Command strips ready.

After climbing on a stool to reach high enough, I did check to make sure the cover was level before pressing the command strips to stick on the wall on either side of the existing chimes cover.

Step 6: (Optional) Add greenery. You could leave the cover as it is – it looks nice alone as a wood cover. But, I really like how it looks after adding a few strands of fake greenery to hang out – it looks like a planter! I didn’t have to secure my fake plants at all because they tucked down around the existing chimes cover, and they hang down over the wood in a way that the leaves help hold it in place.

A wooden cover for a doorbell chime mounted on a white wall, adorned with artificial green ivy leaves.
Greenery added.

That was it! This looks so much better than the old, off-color doorbell chimes cover.

A wooden box with fake greenery hangs on a wall near a door, next to a light fixture and a clipboard.
AFTER: New doorbell cover/planter!


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On-The-Wall Headboard

My parents’ guest room bed needed a headboard, and the empty wall also needed something decorative to add interest to the room at all (aside from one poster on another wall). Since they have a lot of scrap wood, we decided to create a headboard that would attach right to the wall and add some rustic charm to the room.

A guest room with a bed dressed in patterned bedding, a bedside table, a lamp, and a burgundy upholstered chair against a grey wall.
BEFORE: No headboard and bare wall.

This was a very easy project and took me about an hour and a half…and that half hour was mostly spent looking for my dad’s level. 😜 You could use nice, new wood, but the scrap wood they had worked very well to create a rustic looking headboard.


Supplies:

(As an advertising affiliate and Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. But it doesn’t cost you anything extra and helps me keep up my site!)

  • old scrap wood
  • nails
  • painters tape

Tools:

  • level
  • pencil
  • miter saw (or other saw for cutting small pieces of wood)
  • nail gun (or use small nails and a hammer)

Step 1: Plan and mark the sides. After sliding the bed a little bit away from the wall, I took a pencil and lined it up with the side of the bed, marking on the wall to identify how far over the headboard should go. I did this to both sides.

A hand holding a pencil with a small level attached, positioned near a wall, indicating a marking for a headboard installation.
Marking the sides.

Then, taking the level that I eventually found, I drew a straight line up from that mark and ended up deciding that 45 inches was a good height up the wall. That would give plenty of room for the headboard to stick up above the pillows and take up some of the blank wall space. I used the level again and marked a line across, connecting the two side lines.

Taking painters tape, I ran it along my lines to outline my shape. That let me visualize the space where my headboard would go. It also made it very easy when attaching the boards, because I lined up the ends of the boards against the tape for a straight line.

View of a guest room bed with green painter's tape outlining the area for a headboard on an empty wall.
Headboard space outlined.

Step 2: Cut wood. From side to side of my headboard space was 53.25 inches (this is a full-size bed). I wanted the shorter pieces of wood staggered, but I also cut a few the full length across. Basically, I went through the scrap wood and held pieces end-to-end that looked good, then marked one at 53.25 inches to cut with a miter saw.

Because my wood was so rough, I did scrape off some loose chunks and wipe them down quite a bit so it wouldn’t create splinters. If you’re using nice wood, now would be a good time to sand the pieces.

I didn’t worry about getting exactly the right amount of wood cut, but I did enough to make several rows and then took the pieces inside, stacked together so I knew which boards went together to make 53.25 inches.

A collection of scrap wood pieces stacked on a bed, with a level and painter's tape visible, set against a patterned bedspread.
Wood pieces ready.

Step 3: Nail wood onto the wall. I started at the bottom and used one of my long pieces that ran the whole length across. Using the level, I held the board in place and used Brad (my nail gun) to secure the board onto the wall. You definitely want to be sure this first, bottom board is level before stacking the rest on top of it.

A hand holding a level against a wooden plank attached to a wall, with a bed and floor visible in the background.
First board on.

SIDE NOTE: Since my wood was so rustic, I didn’t worry about the nail holes. If you’re using nicer wood, you might want to be sure to space your nails evenly for less chaotic holes, and/or you could use wood filler to fill the holes if you’re going to stain or paint the wood.

From there, I took the rest of my boards and added one row at a time, making sure the ends lined up at the tape.

A partially completed rustic wooden headboard affixed to a wall, with painter's tape outlining the intended shape above the bed.
Staggering each row.

I worked my way up to the top, and I’d cut enough initially to make it almost all the way – I only needed to go back to cut one last row at the top. And for the top, I found a piece of wood that had a cool, natural edge, so I used that for the very top. The top did overlap my tape slightly, so I pulled the tape off before securing that final row. But the tape did show me that everything was still straight and level! The rest of the tape I pulled off once I was finished.

That was it! This was a very cheap and easy way to create a permanent headboard that’s big and adds some rustic decor to the room. Hopefully guests like it too!

A rustic wooden headboard made from scrap wood is mounted on a wall above a bed adorned with a patterned comforter and pillows. A nightstand and a lamp are visible beside the bed, with a cushioned chair in the corner of the room.
AFTER: New rustic headboard.
A rustic wooden headboard mounted on a wall above a bed with white and patterned bedding and decorative pillows.


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Outdoor Chair Makeover

These chairs have needed my attention for quite a while. They were still in sturdy shape, so I knew they had a little life left in them. They just looked terribly worn out.

Two weathered wooden outdoor chairs on a deck, one with faded paint and the other slightly cleaner, surrounded by greenery.
BEFORE: Chairs in need of love.

Supplies:

(As an advertising affiliate and Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. But it doesn’t cost you anything extra and helps me keep up my site!)

Tools:

…I’m just now realizing that I intended to use my new paint sprayer on this project, but I completely forgot. 🤦‍♀️ If you have a paint sprayer, you could do this much more quickly, but I used a cheap brush. You could also use painters tape if you need help with a clean edge between the different paint colors, but I always find I do okay with just a simple little craft brush to make clean lines.

Step 1: Sand and clean chairs. I took my handheld sander and went over every part of the chairs that I could. I used 80 grit sandpaper but only needed one sheet.

A handheld sander being held over a wooden deck with outdoor furniture visible in the background.
Sander ready.

There was some old stain peeling away that needed to be sanded. There were rough spots that I wanted smoother. And there were other places where the wood was just really worn and old, so I sanded those parts down too. Really, you want to sand all over at least a little bit to help the paint adhere.

Once the chairs were sanded, I wiped them down with a wet rag to get off cobwebs, dirt, dust, etc.

Worn wooden chair on a deck, showing a weathered surface with slats and a structure in need of refinishing.
Roughly sanded.

Step 2: Spray paint the hardest parts to paint first. Really, you could paint your outdoor chairs a bunch of different ways, but I focused on how the slats ran across the back and seat. The arms of the chairs and sides of the back and seat had pieces that ran a different way, so these slats seemed like they would look good as their own thing.

I went with black. You could use any color as long as it’s a paint that’s intended for outdoor use. I had some leftover black spray paint, so that’s what I used.

For these harder-to-do parts of the chairs, I definitely recommend spray paint (or a paint sprayer 🤦‍♀️). Spraying on the slats was easier than trying to use a brush and get around all the sides. It was definitely faster. Did this spray paint get on the other parts of the chairs that would be a different color? Sure. But I didn’t worry about this since I knew I’d be painting the other parts next and covering the black anyway.

Basically, start painting the chairs by using spray paint in the color that you want on the majority of the chair, or the most difficult-to-paint parts of the chair. Some might say to use the lighter color first so you can be sure your other paint color will cover it, but my lighter blue covered this black just fine. 🤷‍♀️

Close-up view of a worn outdoor chair with a black slatted seat and backrest, showing signs of damage and peeling paint.
Black spray paint on.

Another good reason to use spray paint first is because it dries quickly, helping you get to the next step.

Step 3: Paint the other chair parts. Once the tricky slats were painted, I took my lighter blue paint and used a brush to paint the arms of the chair, the bottom braces, and the side pieces around the seat and back. There wasn’t much need to spray this paint, since these sections were so large that a brush worked just fine. To paint where the blue met the black of the slats, I used a tiny craft brush and made clean lines of blue paint against the black.

Close-up view of a recently painted outdoor chair with black slats and light blue arms, resting on a tarp.
Painted where blue meets black.

If you use a spray for the rest of the chair too, you’ll need to cover the first painted areas and tape along the edges. That seemed like too much effort, and I figured that a brush would be faster than the prep required for my paint sprayer.

Two outdoor chairs in a garage setting: one is already painted light blue with black slats, and the other is partially painted. There is a paint can nearby, and the chairs are placed on a tarp.
Painting the blue.

I did 2 coats of this light blue, just to be sure the coverage was good over the old wood. I also had a 5-year-old helper, so I went over her areas a few times. 😬

Step 4: Seal. Once all the paint was dry, I gave it overnight to gas off and settle in. The next day, I took a clear gloss spray paint and went over every inch of the chairs to seal and protect the paint.

Once that was dry, the chairs were done! These look so much better than before, and they go nicely with the blue decor I have on the rest of my deck. I like that painting them this way looks a little more interesting than just painting or staining them one solid color too.

Two freshly painted outdoor chairs in light blue with black slats, placed on a wooden deck surrounded by greenery.
AFTER: Painted chairs.


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Pea Gravel Dog Kennel Fix

I let this go for way too long, but this July I finally got around to making our little dog area look decent. I also wanted to get on top of this before another rainy/snowy season when the ground becomes all muddy. Wet and muddy dog prints – not so cute across my kitchen.

Aerial view of a garden area with sparse vegetation and patches of dirt, bordered by a wooden deck and fencing.
BEFORE: Messy dog kennel.

The best fix I came up with was to make a pea gravel bottom instead of dirt, and I used landscape cloth to help deter future weed growth. To help hold gravel in place on the “human used” side of our gravel patio, I’d used some very handy ground cover paver forms (see picture at the very bottom), but I didn’t want to spend that much on the dog side. Long story less long, I should have spent the extra $$ and bought more of the heavy-duty paver forms, but I’d decided to try a less expensive option. You could use the less expensive forms like I did, because at the end I figured out a way to make them work almost as well. But honestly, I really like how the more expensive ones work way better and take less gravel.


Supplies:

(As an advertising affiliate and Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. But it doesn’t cost you anything extra and helps me keep up my site!)

Tools:

  • Scissors
  • Rake and shovel

Step 1: Clear area and level the base. I cut back a lot of plants and pulled a bunch of weeds. Our oldest dog is a digger, so I had holes and lumps all over the ground to deal with. Taking a metal rake and a shovel, I scraped along the ground and shoveled dirt around until the area was fairly level. I was careful to keep the side along our house a little higher than the rest to help with drainage.

Cleared area before laying gravel, showcasing a leveled dirt space adjacent to wooden planter boxes and surrounding greenery.
Weeded and leveled.

Step 2: Enclose the space. The fencing that I used for the kennel area is fantastic. It can run straight or turn at angles where each section of gate connects. It doesn’t look bad if you have to fudge it a little bit by overlapping to make it fit, either. You can buy sections at a time if you’re not sure how much you’ll need, but it was pretty easy to figure out that I needed 10 ft along one side and 13 feet along the other. (The back side was just the house wall, and the last side of the dog area was already enclosed under our deck.)

Starting right against the house, I shoved in a pole/stake to hold that end of the gate in place, then connected the next section of gate with a pole running between the first and second sections. It was easy to do this in a straight line, adding sections of gate and poles until I reached my planter box at the other end. This was my 13-ft side. Here, I took another section of gate to make the corner. Then I ran more fencing along the planter box, overlapping a section in the middle to get the right overall length of about 10 feet. I had a very narrow gap at my planter box’s corner, but I just used a leftover pole/stake and shoved that into the box’s dirt to block off any escape attempts.

Installing this fencing took me literally 10 minutes.

Very easy + Looks nice + Sturdy and secure against my 65-pound mutt = 👍

Step 3: Lay the landscape fabric. I had quite a bit of this leftover from another yard project, but I had to buy a roll to finish. This is pretty easy once your ground is level, because all I had to do was roll it out from the house to the fencing on the far end. Scissors cut the fabric well, and then I took the roll and started again to cover the next strip of ground. I overlapped each strip a little bit to help cover everything, and it helped to use my rakes to hold one end down while I rolled out each strip.

It’s worth noting that I had a sprinkler head right smack in the middle of the space. When I rolled the fabric over this spot, I cut a hole and made sure the sprinkler head had plenty of room to stick through. (More on that later, as I had to take this into consideration with each following step.)

A fenced dog area with landscape fabric and gravel laid down, surrounded by greenery and a house wall.
Fencing and fabric done.

Step 4: Lay out the paver forms. Again, I wish I’d bought these paver forms, but I used these more flexible forms and eventually found a way to make them work by adding these anchoring spikes. The flexible forms do NOT come with enough spikes to secure the forms if you’ve got a dog (or kids) that are rough on the space. I found after laying them and after filling everything with gravel that they too easily pulled up in the middle where there were no anchor spikes, and the forms being loose ruined the whole point. 🤦‍♀️ BUT, if secured with more spikes through the little holes here and there, the forms stayed quite well.

So, learn from my mistake and make sure you secure these forms down really, really well.

Package of anchoring spikes for landscaping, featuring details about their durability and suitability for no-dig edging.
Use these for extra securing!

Anyway…I stretched out and unfolded the flexible forms and spread this wide mesh across the space, securing it at one end, then the other. (I now know I should have secured it everywhere I could with extra spikes, so do that now.) I do like that they come with little fasteners to attach one side of one strip to another side of another strip, and it’s pretty easy to make one, big form this way to fill the space. The material also cuts pretty easily with scissors, so you can adjust the size and shape more easily than you can with the more heavy-duty forms.

Close-up of flexible paver forms resting on landscape fabric, showing their design and holes for anchoring.
Fasteners to join sides.

Cutting here and securing there, I eventually covered my space with the forms. I made sure that a big opening allowed my sprinkler head to have space. I also made sure to add extra anchor spikes all along the exposed side to hold that down where the dogs would be running a lot.

A dog area featuring a textured black ground cover laid out in a patterned formation, enclosed by fencing and greenery in the background, with a wooden structure overhead.
Forms done.

Step 5: Fill with gravel. After hauling 10 bags home from Lowe’s in my Jeep, I got smart and ordered 35 more bags to be delivered so I didn’t cause a smelly mess in my Jeep. When figuring out how much you’ll need, take your square footage and look at what the bag says about coverage. I needed 130ish square feet, and it needed to be about 3 inches deep. I ended up needing about 50 bags total.

It was heavy, dirty work, but it was satisfying to dump each bag and then spread the gravel into the forms. I made sure not to fill the circular form I’d made around the sprinkler head, and it kind of looks like a little drain in the middle.

Done! I had some hiccups with this project, but once I got those extra anchor spikes in, these forms worked pretty well. Our older dog can’t dig as easily with the forms in place, and the gravel certainly looks better than the dirt mess that was there before. The below picture was taken about a week after I finished, so you can see how I might want another bag of gravel to cover the forms now that the gravel has settled, but I don’t mind seeing the pattern of the forms a little bit. The important thing is that our dogs can’t move them anymore!

Aerial view of a newly created dog area featuring pea gravel, bordered by plants and a fence against a backdrop of green bushes and grass.
AFTER: Pea gravel dog kennel.

And in case you’re wondering, this is what the end result looks like with the more heavy-duty forms, which I used under our deck and on the side of the patio that we humans use. 🙂

An outdoor gravel patio area beside a house, featuring a textured stone surface and a section covered with pea gravel, surrounded by landscaping and furniture in the background.


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Garage Storage for Kid Stuff

Chalk. Chalk everywhere.

I can have all the totes and buckets and containers in the world, and still my kids will end up piling their chalk and bubbles right inside our door for easy access when playing outside. And since we actually have neighbor kids to play with now (yay!), many little feet run in and out to access the pile of chaos on our dining room floor.

A cluttered floor covered with various children’s toys and art supplies, including chalk, bubbles, and packaging.
BEFORE: Pile of outdoor play supplies.

Combine this problem with my anxiousness over an upcoming book release, and you get me cleaning the entire garage this week in order to restore some of my sanity. 🤪

This project pretty much could be called “how I put up 2 shelves,” but we made a cute little addition that other people might find useful too.


Supplies:

(As an advertising affiliate and Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. But it doesn’t cost you anything extra and helps me keep up my site!)

Tools:

  • Drill or screwdriver
  • Wire cutters

Step 1: Hang shelves. I wanted 2 shelves with one low enough to be reached by the smallest kids. I had some metal wire shelves in my craft room that I didn’t use much, so I used those. If you have some like the kind I linked in my Supplies List, those come with their own braces/hardware and are easy to install.

Taking the braces, I found studs in our garage and screwed the braces into the studs. I did use a level to make sure the shelves would be level. It doesn’t really matter how far apart you place the braces, just as long as they’ll support the length of your shelf and attach from the underside, if you have that kind.

A close-up view of a metal shelf bracket attached to a wall, with a skateboard partially visible above it.
Braces screwed into studs.

Once the braces were on, I lay the metal shelves on top.

Two metal wire shelves mounted on a garage wall, ready for storage.
Shelves on.

I did use one of the little things that you nail on to secure the shelf against the wall. I imagine these shelves are going to be jostled quite a bit, so that seemed like a good idea. We wouldn’t want the shelves falling on kids.

A person's hand pointing to a metal wire shelf against a wall.
Attached to wall for security.

Step 2: Clean and decorate hanging flower baskets. Here’s the fun part. I had 2 spare hanging baskets, one for each of my girls. You could do several baskets in different sizes if you have more kids or a LOT of stuff to store. Basically, the idea was that the hanging baskets would let each girl have a way to load up what they wanted from the shelves to then take outside, and they could bring the baskets back inside and hang them up when done. It also gives them a way to claim those “special” things they don’t want to share.

Two hanging flower baskets on a countertop, one with a white plastic hook and the other with a metal hook, both intended for storage or decoration.
Baskets to clean.

After cleaning the baskets, I let the girls go nuts with my paint markers. I thought stickers would be a fun way to decorate, but for some reason they weren’t really into that. 🤷‍♀️ You could also write your kids’ names on the baskets or write what they’re supposed to hold. For us…we went for lots of color.

A decorated bucket with colorful drawings and a gumball machine sticker, hanging in a garage.
They humored me with one sticker 😆

Step 3: Make spaces for baskets to hang. My metal shelves had very narrow spaces, so I needed to make wider spaces for the basket hooks to hang from. Plus, I wanted the girls to know exactly where they should hang. So, I took wire cutters and easily enough snapped off one wire for each basket. These were on the front side of the shelf, not the main top.

Sidenote: Your shelves might have more spaces between the wires, but I still like making the space extra wide so the kids know to hang them in the same place. This keeps the baskets from hitting anything stored under the bottom shelf.

A person holding wire cutters near a metal wire shelf in a garage, with a toy scooter visible in the background.
Snipping wire to make space.

Step 4: Hang and fill! When the marker paint was dry, I hung the baskets in place. Then my girls helped me carry all their stuff to the garage, and we arranged their chalk and bubbles stuff on the lower shelf. Some bubbles specifically belonged to my 5-year-old, I was told, so those went straight in her basket. My 6-year-old’s rock collection went in hers. 😬

On the top shelf, I put some of our sports equipment and games. These are used less often right now, and since I usually play with these things with the girls, I’ll be there to get them down anyway. You could put the 2 shelves at the same level, but we had space under our kayak, so this worked. (Also, this top shelf could be placed even higher and used as a “husband shelf” with his own basket for golf balls or whatever…hypothetically…if your husband also needs help with organization. LOL)

A cluttered garage showing metal wire shelves filled with colorful toys, containers, and sports equipment, alongside two hanging flower baskets attached to the shelves. A scooter is positioned between the baskets, and various items are stored beneath.
AFTER: Shelves and baskets for outside toys.

Can’t wait for the neighbor kids to visit and try this out! After I get more smaller baskets, I might even make one for each kid, since there’s room to hang more.

And before you ask – yes, someday we will paint the garage. 😂


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