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Decorative “Mosaic” Bowls

At the risk of spoiling Christmas gifts, here’s how I took plain bowls and decorated them. This was a pretty easy and fun way to make gifts for people, so here’s a Christmas gift idea if you’re looking!

BEFORE: Plain serving bowl.

I first heard that you could decorate these bowls using markers, but I experimented and didn’t really like the stroke marks that markers created. Instead, I used acrylic paint pens, and these worked much better to get brighter, sharper color and smoother, more “liquidy” strokes. What works best might depend on what kind of bowl you use – wood, ceramic, etc. – but these were made from bamboo fiber materials, and acrylic paint pens worked best for me to get the results I wanted. 🤷‍♀️I really like these bowls because they’re eco friendly, the lid stays put and doubles as a cutting board, and they come with two serving utensils, so you’re giving someone a nice set rather than just a plain bowl, too.

I got it in my head that I wanted to do mosaic patterns around the bowls, and this was probably more time consuming than if I’d drawn/painted normal pictures or shapes. But I think the end result looks pretty cool, and it looks a little fancier than just drawing straight flowers on a bowl (something I’d done first to 2 other bowls).

So here’s how I made “mosaic” art on these decorate bowls!


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Step 1: Sketch the plan. In order to be sure my design would be evenly spaced between top and bottom as well as matching up as I worked around the bowl, I took a pencil and outlined my basic plan. This was way easier once I flipped the bowl upside-down, and that’s how I worked with the bowls from then on. Just remember the bowl is upside-down if you’re drawing pictures and want them to look right once the bowl is flipped back over. 😜

Sketching my plan.

Step 2: Outline. Once my pattern was sketched in pencil, I took a black acrylic paint pen and carefully traced my pencil outline. Then, once sure of my boundaries, I began making my little lines all over to create the “mosaic” look of my design. This is what took time, but it was easy and fun to cross and zigzag and divide my lines to make cool mosaic patterns.

Adding black outlines.

Step 3: (Optional) Fill in mosaic around your main pattern. I gave my black a little while to dry to make sure I didn’t accidentally wipe it as I painted my next step on the bowl. It was also at this time that I carefully scratched a black line and found that it did scrape off a bit, but I’d already planned for this (more later). Just be sure, as you’re adding color, to not drag your hand or scratch over your design – it might smear or scrape off.

Anyway, while the black dried, I stared at the bowl a while and decided I wanted to completely cover it in a mosaic look. But I didn’t want to add more black lines for fear it would just look like I left those blank. So, I took a gold acrylic paint pen (it came in my same acrylic paint pen set) and went to work making lines and patterns all around my main design. I also outlined along the black sections to make them stand out.

Adding gold mosaic lines.

I was careful not to cross onto the black outlines, but wherever I goofed I could easily paint back over the gold with black to fix my slob spots.

Step 4: Add color. Satisfied now with my overall mosaic base, it was time to add color. I decided to use red, orange, yellow, and a light peach – again, all from that same paint pen set, so there are lots of color options! Completely at random, I started filling in the mosaic little squares and rectangles with one color at a time, working my way all around the bowl. I started from darkest to lightest, but I don’t think it really matters how you choose to apply the color.

Adding color.

I noticed that, if I accidentally went over the black outline with the lighter colors, this would lighten the black a little bit. But, it wasn’t super-noticeable and seemed to darken again as it dried. If any slobs were too bad, I painted back over them with black. (My 5-year-old told me I did a pretty good job of staying in the lines, which is nice to hear from such an accomplished artist.)

Color done! Needed some black touch-ups.

Step 5: Spray on sealer/gloss. In order to give the paint as much time as I could to set and dry, I left the bowl overnight on a high shelf where nothing (ahem, the cat) would touch it.

The next morning, I carefully lifted the bowl and carried it to my better-ventilated craft room to spray on some high-gloss, clear sealer. I used a spare paint can on top of my turntable, then rested the upside-down bowl on top. This way, I could spray from the top of the bowl to the bottom evenly while turning the bowl slowly all the way around.

I did a very light first coat to make sure it didn’t run my paint or leave drip trails.

Ready to apply the sealer.

After the first coat dried (about an hour), I touched it to be sure and also found it was now much more difficult to scrape off any of the paint design. To be sure, though, I gave the bowl another good coat of my gloss spray, again making sure to cover the whole upside-down bowl.

That was it! This wasn’t a particularly difficult craft project, but you can make any design of your choosing to cover these bowls. And with the protective gloss on, they’re sure to stay pretty for a while. I wouldn’t submerge the bowls in water or soap or anything – certainly not a dishwasher – but these bowls would work great as serving bowls for nut mixes (especially with the serving utensils), rolls, popcorn balls, or anything that can be easily wiped out of the bowls after use.

AFTER: Decorative “mosaic” bowl.

Now to make 4 more before Christmas! Wish me luck! (And follow me on Instagram to see how they turn out…which I’ll post after Christmas, so I don’t spoil the rest of my gifts. 😆)

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Saving Junk Furniture

I’ve always loved taking hand-me-down, “junk” furniture and turning it into something new and cool. Many of my earliest DIY projects (if that’s what they were called in the 90s), involved taking old dressers or tables or nightstands and painting them in fun and unique ways so that they had a second life. This is how I ended up with a pretty cool room as a teenager. I did homework in my room on a restored and repainted kitchen table, which is still in use at my parents’ house and in fact was used to hold pies this Thanksgiving. It’s also how I ended up with my cousin’s dresser and makeup table, which now are in my daughter’s bedroom and my own bedroom, respectively. I’ve redone benches for friends, tables for friends, and countless projects for my mother. 😆

BEFORE: Table in terrible shape.

So when I say that this table seemed almost beyond redemption, you know it was pretty bad. My mom bought it somewhere for cheap (I’m quite sure), and she asked if I could fix it up to use at her house for her grandkids. Since her grandkids coincidentally are my kids, they teamed up with Grammy to insist I give it a go.

There was no way a simple sand-and-paint job was going to be enough. The general structure of the table was fortunately ok, but the tabletop and legs were stained from years of use. It appeared that liquids of indeterminate origins had soaked into the wood as well. There were also a lot of really deep scratches and cracks. I could have worked really hard to sand all this smooth and putty the scratches and cracks before painting over it, but I was pretty sure I’d have to go quite deep to find smooth and clean wood again. I don’t have that kind of time or patience. And I wasn’t entirely sure the table was up for it either.

So how did I decide to fix the damage? I burned it all! 😆 But with control, and on purpose, to make the table look cool again.

If you don’t have the skill or the tools or the patience to repair ugly furniture the “right” way, this is a relatively easy, inexpensive, and unique way to do it! You could do this to a dresser, headboard, or really any wooden furniture piece. Obviously I’m showing you how I did this table, but the same general steps will apply.


(As an advertising affiliate and Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. But it doesn’t cost you anything extra and helps me keep up my site!)

  • sandpaper and sander
  • spray paint
  • kitchen torch
  • semi-gloss polyurethane

Step 1: Disassemble and clean. To make things easier, I took off the table legs so I could fix them separate from the main tabletop. I wanted to be able to put the tabletop on my lazy Susan to spin easily as I worked, and this wouldn’t have worked with the legs on either. With the legs off, I’d also have an easier time sanding to the edges of my pieces.

Legs removed.

To give myself an even easier time sanding, I wiped down the whole table and scraped off some gunk stuck to the wood.

Step 2: Sand. I used 60-grit sandpaper because this table needed tough love. If your furniture doesn’t have layers of stain or paint and is generally not in terrible shape, you could use a higher grit sandpaper so it’s not too rough on your wood. But mine needed 60.

I started with the legs and went all over them with my little sander (a birthday present yet to be named) to get rid of the slime-y feel on the existing stain. To save time and make this project easier on myself, I’d decided to just spray paint the legs since they weren’t too banged up. So, I only sanded the legs enough to give the spray paint a “rough” surface to adhere to.

Then came the tabletop. This took a while. There appeared to be a few layers of wood stain. And then there were damaged areas where liquid had soaked into the wood. And of course those scratches were nearly impossible to smooth out without sanding so far down that it left dips in the surface. I ended up going over the whole surface about 3 times to get off as much as I could.

Sanding the surface.

With the top done, I flipped it over and sanded down the surrounding side parts/supports around the underside of the tabletop. These weren’t too bad, but I sanded them down pretty well since I wanted these sides to match the top.

Once I was sure it was as good as I was going to get it, I wiped off the whole tabletop to get rid of any dust.

Step 3: Spray paint the legs. Like I said, it seemed like a lot of effort to do anything complicated with the legs. Since they weren’t in bad shape, I decided to just spray paint them black and call it good. I used a glossy paint to add some shine, and I sprayed on 2 coats to make sure they were good and covered.

Painted legs.

If you have a part of your furniture that would be difficult to burn evenly or would take a lot of time to do, spray painting these parts is a good alternative to torching. It also can help to highlight the cooler, burned sections.

Step 4: Torch the wood. Using my kitchen torch (which at this point is covered in epoxy and I need a new one for my actual kitchen), I set it to a medium flame and began at the edges of my tabletop. I went over these edges with the flame and burned them quite a bit without worrying about grain lines just yet. Then I started from one side’s edge and began to go over the top surface with the flame to burn long lines across the tabletop.

I like to tilt my torch and blow the flame forward over the surface I’m burning rather than aiming the torch straight down at the wood. This makes straighter, less dotted lines as you move across the wood, plus it doesn’t get your hand as hot!

If you have natural wood grain lines to guide your burn lines, this looks great and makes it easier. However, my wood was a mess and I had to make my own fake “grain lines” by burning them into the wood. This takes time and is a little more effort, but it’s not that difficult.

Torching the surface.

If you’re worried about starting a fire, it helps to keep a wet cloth or sponge nearby. If you feel like your burned wood is too hot, use the wet cloth to pat the hot parts and cool them down. But despite using, you know, fire for this project, it really does char the wood nicely without catching anything aflame.

If you feel like your lines are too blotchy, I found that I could really, really burn a bigger area and that looked fine too, surrounded by smaller lines.

Once I was done with the tabletop, I also burned the surrounding bottom sides that attach to the legs. You could do this part first and the tabletop second. I just wanted to make sure it worked on the worst part – the top – before bothering with the sides if it didn’t work.

Finished torching.

Step 5: Seal with polyurethane. Once the wood was cool to the touch, I grabbed a can of semigloss polyurethane. (You could use high gloss or matte, depending on the shine you want.) Using a brush to really get it into the wood, I brushed the poly on over the tabletop surface. I gave it a good coat, including over the edges. Then I did the surrounding bottom sides as well.

While the first coat was drying, I could already see I would need a second coat because it soaked in so much where the wood was most burnt. But the poly doesn’t take long to dry, so I applied a second coat over the first, and this really helped to make the top surface shiny and smooth.

Poly soaking in.

Step 6: Reattach the legs. With the table dry, I spread out a towel and lay the tabletop upside-down to reattach the legs. These went on easily with the original hardware, and then I flipped the whole table to stand.

Legs back on.

Ta-da! This “junk” table went from a total mess to now a really cool little piece of furniture. My mom is happy; my kids are happy. Mission accomplished.

AFTER: Rejuvenated table!

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Easy Spice Cupboard Shelves

Is it turmeric? Is it nutmeg? It’s hard to see! (There’s a story there about a time I very, very incorrectly made ginger ale floats… 😆)

Yesterday, I discovered that we’d bought TWO huge containers of chili powder because we hadn’t seen the one we already had buried behind other spice jars. This was my final straw of minor annoyance, and I decided to reconfigure our spice cupboard.

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No-Wire Light Fixture

Good lighting is a must for Lego building. Also for eating, I suppose, but lately our dining room table is mostly used for Legos. Unfortunately, our front room (which I converted into our dining room since I converted our dining room into a pantry) is a pretty big room with no ceiling light to shine over the table. Instead of operating a ceiling light, the light switches control the top electrical plugs in the room. So, we’ve been using a few lamps scattered around the room combined with wall sconces, the wiring for which runs hidden down to the electrical outlets behind the walls’ wood accents. This surrounding lighting has worked well enough, but it doesn’t provide much light over the table, obviously.

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Custom Shelf Storage

8,571. That’s how many blankets we have. Approximately. Maybe not quite, but it feels like it.

Our first house was half the size but had twice as much storage as our current home, and that has presented some storage challenges. As far as linen closets go, we have ONE little closet in our upstairs hall. Our laundry room on the main floor is a disaster to discuss on another day, but it’s where we store most of our cleaning supplies. I wouldn’t say I’m lazy, but I don’t exactly want to walk up and down our stairs every time I need to clean our upstairs bathrooms (or other messes – thank you, cat), so I also need to store some cleaning supplies in that linen closet. Why don’t I just store them in the bathrooms, you ask? Because I need any storage space in the bathrooms for towels, toiletries, etc. This linen closet really is the best option…

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