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Window Frame Kids’ Art Display

We only have so much room on our fridge for the art my kids make me that we HAVE to keep. I wanted a slightly nicer way to display these masterpieces without just tacking them on a corkboard, and those cute little frames you can buy to display kids’ artwork would never be enough, plus you never know the size of paper that’s going to come my way.

But I did have 2 old window frames, so…


Supplies:

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  • Window frame (can use craft store window frame with chicken wire removed for smaller frames, or search Etsy for full-sized window frames)
  • String
  • Staples
  • Paperclips

Tools:

An old wooden window frame with six panes, a staple gun, a ball of twine, and a small container of colorful push pins, placed on a marbled surface.
BEFORE: Old window frames, string, and paperclips.

Step 1: Paint or stain the frame. Mine were already painted black, and I thought that would look nice for a distinct frame, so I left them black.

Side note: I know not everyone has spare window frames lying around, but you can buy the same size as mine on Etsy or smaller frames at a craft store – the kind that have chicken wire to clip things onto. If you’re like me and don’t really like the farmhouse-y, chicken wire look, you can snip off the chicken wire and go from there. Or, if you want to be really creative, you can make frames from 1x2s. For my project, I used old window frames all ready to go (like you’d find on Etsy).

Step 2: Cut string. Here’s the thing – I didn’t want to just stick the artwork on the front of the frames because that would hide the frames, and the artwork would flap around from open windows and fall off too easily. So, I wanted the artwork to sit behind the frames and be…well, framed by each section of the frames. This meant I’d need to attach the art papers to the backside of the windows. To do this, I needed something that wouldn’t stick out or keep the window from hanging flat against the wall.

Solution: string, paper clips, and staples, all lying flat against the back of the window so it wouldn’t make the frame stick out or fall off the wall.

Turning the window frames backside-up, I unspooled my string to stretch from one side of the window to the other and cut the string so a little extra would go on either end. I needed 2 strings at roughly the same length for each window.

Close-up of an old wooden window frame with a partially painted edge, resting on a surface. A yellow tool is visible next to the frame.
Cutting the right amount of string.

Step 3: Staple on the string. For the topmost string, I needed to bring it down about a half inch so the hanging screws in the wall would have a place to catch/hold the frame without getting caught on the artwork or string. Starting at one end, I looped the string a bit to add to how it would be held down, and then I stapled the string onto the window frame. Holding that tight all the way across to the other side, I also looped that end and stapled it in place.

To keep the string from sagging, I stapled the string onto the interior divider sections of the frame too.

Close-up view of a wooden frame with black and white paint, featuring a piece of white string threaded through a corner joint.
Stapled top string to a middle divider.

For the lower section, I ran a string from side to side right along the middle divider. Again, I looped each end to add to the grip of the staples, keeping the string tight across the center. Also again, I kept the string from sagging by stapling the string onto the interior divider sections.

Close-up view of a wooden window frame with a black finish and visible weathering, featuring a tied rope secured with a metal clip.
Stapled end.

Step 4: Add art papers with paper clips. Lying each piece of art face-down, I arranged one at a time and used paper clips to attach each paper onto the strings. I ended up using 2 paper clips for each paper just because the papers were a bit heavy and I didn’t want them to tilt all crazy.

A person holding a paperclip while attaching a string to the back of a picture frame with a glass front, resting on a textured surface.
Placing paper clips.

Step 5: Hang the window frames. I’d already screwed or nailed 2 screws/nails for each window frame, and you just have to be sure they are level and in position to catch the window frames so they hang nicely. Because of that half-inch gap at the tops of my windows, this left plenty of room to hang the windows and see what I was doing without poking into the papers. (Spacing this top string also makes it easier to change out the artwork later, without having to take the whole thing down.)

That was it! I can easily swap these artwork pieces when new artwork comes along by pulling the art off the paper clips and replacing them. I like that they’re secured in place and won’t fall or blow around, and they look nicely framed, kind of like a collage, without needing a dedicated frame for each piece.

A collage of colorful children's artwork displayed in a black-framed grid. The pieces include drawings of a rainbow, a sunset, a peace sign, and various abstract patterns.
AFTER: Kids’ artwork display!


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Packing Paper Braided Basket

Can you braid? Do you have a bunch of packing paper, a hot glue gun, and a box of any kind? That’s all it took to make this really pretty decorative basket.

I’ve saved a LOT of packing paper from our delivery boxes ever since I used some to make a braided wreath (see that here), but I only ended up using about half my pile for this basket. I also had this long, narrow box made of foam and wood that I’d tried again and again to find a use for, and this was finally its time to shine! You could use literally any box that’s the shape and size you want – even a cardboard delivery box that had the packing paper with it in the first place. I did use a bunch of glue sticks, so that’s probably the most important thing to actually purchase. But I got a whole pack of them for about $8, so this is a very inexpensive project!

A pile of crumpled packing paper next to a rectangular wooden box on a countertop.
BEFORE: Packing paper and a funky box.

Supplies:

(As an advertising affiliate and Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. But it doesn’t cost you anything extra and helps me keep up my site!)

  • Lots of packing paper
  • A box (cardboard or wood or whatever, in any shape you want for a basket)
  • Rubber band
  • Glue gun sticks

Tools:


Step 1: Prep the box. Because you’ll see little bits of the box through the braided paper, it’s a good idea to start by making your box a solid base color. You could paint, use markers, or glue/tape on paper over the box. You just want to make sure you can’t see any logos or wording on the box base to start.

I had some leftover brown spray paint, so that’s what I used to give my weird box a uniform base color.

A long, narrow box made of foam and wood, with a faintly visible base color, situated on a cluttered work table surrounded by various crafting supplies.
Prepping the box.

Step 2: Divide paper into even strips. I wasn’t sure exactly how much packing paper I’d need, but I started with my longest strips and spread them flat-ish, then cut them into 3 strips of equal-ish width. They don’t have to be perfect. You also can use smaller, shorter lengths of paper if you don’t have the giant strips that are wrapped around bigger packages in some deliveries.

I did this for a whole bunch of the papers, and I made sure to keep each set of 3 together. How many you’ll need just depends on the size of your box.

Three strips of crumpled packing paper laid out on a table, ready for crafting.
Paper cut into even strips.

Step 3: Bunch the paper into rope-like strands. Using my hands, I took one strip at a time and crinkled it to be more rope-like. I also made sure to twist the paper so it stayed like this fairly tightly.

It was also during this step that I turned my glue gun on to warm up.

Three twisted strands made of packing paper arranged on a marble surface, ready for use in a DIY project.
Making rope-like strands.

Step 4: Braid the paper. Once all my strips were bunched and twisted like paper ropes, I took my first set of 3 and used a rubber band to hold one end together. From there, I braided the 3 strips together, making sure to keep the braid tight but not so tight that anything ripped. If you do get little rips, it’s no big deal, and you can even glue them back together.

A close-up of a hand holding twisted strips of crinkled brown packing paper, showcasing a braided design.
Braiding the strands of paper.

At the far end of the braid, I took my glue gun and glued the 3 strands of the braid together to keep the whole braid secure. I held the parts tight until the glue dried, then moved to the first end, took off the rubber band, and glued that end too.

A close-up view of a hand holding a braided strip of packing paper, with crumpled packing paper laying on a wooden floor in the background.
Glued end…doesn’t have to be pretty.

Step 5: Glue braids to the box. Once you have all your sets of 3 braided together, you can test them out for spacing on the box. I liked my thickest one along the bottom of my box’s longest side, so I started there. I found it was easier to glue along the box where I wanted the braid to go rather than trying to glue along the lumpy braid itself. I only glued on small sections at a time to make sure the glue didn’t dry before getting the braid on, too.

It was definitely easier to start with my biggest braids to cover as much as I could first. Then I went back around and added smaller sections of braids to cover the rest of the box. Sometimes I cut one of my braids to fit where I needed to cover, so be sure to glue these cut ends if you need to do the same.

Staggering the ends of the braids definitely looked best, by the way. Tucking the end of a new braid slightly under an already-attached braid helped to hide the new ends, and it all blended together nicely that way.

A close-up image of a braided packing paper decoration placed on a long box, with a blurred kitchen background.
Glueing on braids and staggering placement.

For corners, I found that if I tested the position of a braid and bent it around the corner, I was then able to easily glue the box in the correct place and hold the braid around that corner while the glue dried to hold it in place.

For along the top of the box, I had a nice wide edge to work with so that I could just glue the top edge and press a braid straight down on top of it. If you’re using a regular cardboard box, this will still work because the topmost braid on your box’s side will be thick enough to glue on that as well as the thin edge of the cardboard box, and then you can press a braid on top of that to create a top side for your basket. This will hide the cardboard box’s top edge underneath that top braid. (See the picture below for a visual if this sounds confusing.)

I also had little dividers running across my long, narrow box, so I added little sections of braid across those. This made pretty cool sections within the basket. If you want to do something similar, it’d be easy to tape different boxes of the same size together, side by side, at the very beginning. You can wrap the braids around the exterior sides like it’s one bigger box to start with, but then on the interior where the boxes’ sides meet, you can cover these little sections like I did mine. (Just an option!)

A decorative basket made from packing paper braided around a long, narrow wooden box, resting on a kitchen countertop.
Top braids and divider sections.

You might notice from the pictures that I didn’t bother with the inside of the basket. This was because it was so narrow anyway, plus I planned to fill it with decorations. If you’re going to see the insides of your basket, you might want to add braids here too. Just keep in mind that that’ll take up space and make the interior smaller.

A hand holding a long, braided strip made of packing paper, with a kitchen area in the background.
Finishing up!

Attaching the braids was rather time-consuming but pretty easy. I had 2 child-sized distractions, but I got the whole basket done in about 2 hours. 😆 Once it was done, all I had left was to find a place for my new basket and fill it with decorations!

A decorative braided basket made from packing paper, adorned with artificial leaves and a candle, displayed on a windowsill.
AFTER: Pretty decorative basket.
A decorative braided basket made from packing paper, filled with green leaves and a white candle, placed on a windowsill.

This turned out pretty cool, and I love how I’ll be able to fill it with decorations for every season. The long, narrow box I picked works great in a windowsill or as a long table centerpiece, but there are a LOT of options for how to use these baskets, just depending on what size and shape you want yours to be. A small square basket would look cute on a side table – fill it with decorations to even use it for remote controls. A really big basket could even sit in the corner of a room to use for storing blankets. Or, you could make a basket to use as a “pot” for a fake plant. I also considered weaving ribbons or strands of beads into the braids, so you could do that as a way to decorate the basket itself – I just wanted mine neutral so I could change the decorations for each season.

This project gives you so many options, and again this was pretty cheap and easy, so give it a try!


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Making a Cement Wall Pretty

My mom had a very specific request for her Mother’s Day present this year. She wanted me to paint flowers on a cement retaining wall in her back yard. This wall stands behind a small flower garden, and the large, grey cement backdrop was definitely asking for some love.

If you have a cement retaining wall similar to this, or if you have cement exposed along the side of your house on a hill, this is a fun way to add some colorful artwork – especially if you have kids or grandkids who play in the area.

A cement retaining wall in a backyard, partially covered by a small flower garden with green plants and blooming flowers. Supplies for painting the wall, including a paint roller, paint tray, and concrete paint, are set on the ground.
BEFORE: Plain cement wall.

Supplies:

(As an advertising affiliate and Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. But it doesn’t cost you anything extra and helps me keep up my site!)

Tools:

  • Paint roller
  • paint brushes (craft brushes work great)

Step 1: Clean the cement. You could hose down the wall and wait for it to dry, if there’s mud or other gunk stuck on the cement. My mom did this part on her own (yay, group effort on this project!) and just wiped the wall down to get off dirt and cobwebs.

Step 2: Background paint. I’d definitely recommend using outdoor cement paint that will be durable and also adhere properly to the wall. We used the Dutch Boy Porch and Floor paint because I’d used it before on other projects and trusted it to work.

Containers of Dutch Boy paint for a DIY flower mural project, featuring various colors including red, green, blue, and white.
Paint.

This comes in a variety of color options, and my mom picked a light sky blue for the background. She again did this step herself, and it dried very quickly so that she was able to do 2 coats within an hour. Honestly, a quart probably would have been plenty rather than a whole gallon, if you don’t want to spend quite as much.

A cement retaining wall painted light blue, surrounded by colorful flower beds and greenery in a backyard setting.
Base/background paint on.

Keep in mind that the cement doesn’t have to be in great shape for this to work. Our cement wall was pitted with uneven chunks all over, but you’ll be covering this “character,” and it’s easy to work around the bad parts. My mom did use a smaller brush to really get the background paint into the holes and cracks all over the wall, but for the most part she used a roller. You might notice that she did not go all the way to the ground, and this was because she wanted to add a bit more dirt to the flowerbed, plus plants will be growing along the bottom to cover that up. If you want a nice, straight line along the ground, you could either paint right down to the dirt or roll a straight line across the bottom.

Close-up of a light blue cement retaining wall, showing pitted texture and imperfections.
Close-up of imperfect wall.

Step 3: Outline flowers/design. This is when I came in. Using a permanent marker, I drew outlines of flowers, stems, and leaves all along the cement wall. I did this fairly quickly because we were just going for a cartoon-y flowerbed design. If you want to do something nicer and more detailed, I’d still use a marker to get your planned outlines, but it will take longer, of course.

A cement retaining wall painted light blue with outlines of various flowers drawn on it, situated behind a small flower garden.
Outline in marker.

Step 4: Paint the art! Rather than painting one flower at a time, I did one color at a time. I liked doing one color at a time because it helped me get a feel for where I wanted how much of each color, and it also meant I didn’t have to go back and forth cleaning my brushes between colors.

First, I used green to get the stems and leaves filled in.

A cement retaining wall painted light blue with outlined flowers and green stems in a backyard garden, surrounded by blooming flowers.
Green first.

Again, you can get this paint in whatever colors you want, and my mom bought a quart each of green, white, yellow, and red as well as the gallon of the base blue color. This was WAY more paint than I needed, even with a wall this big. The small 8 ounce sizes of your individual colors might be plenty, so keep that in mind when buying paint.

Anyway, I used a few different brushes, but small craft brushes worked just fine. I did like having straight-edged brushes when doing the parts that went right against my outlines. Straight little brushes definitely worked best for the long stems, too.

It’s worth noting that this kind of paint wipes off easily if you slob a bit – which happens when you paint vertical surfaces, if you’re like me. I just used my finger or a paper towel. Just be sure to wipe off the mistakes before the paint dries, since it dries pretty quickly!

Also worth noting: The paint often went over the black marker of my outlines, but not really enough to cover it completely, so keep that in mind if you make a mistake with the marker. Before you paint, you may want to use your base/background paint to cover over any outline mistakes.

After the green, I used red to paint red flowers. Then I mixed in a little white to make a pink color.

A colorful mural of flowers painted on a cement retaining wall, with a light blue background and various flower designs outlined in black marker. The wall is situated in a backyard with green plants and pink flowers visible in the foreground.
Red and pink painted.

Next I mixed a little yellow into that to make a pretty orange/coral color. I did a few flowers with this color, and I also used it to do the centers of some of the other flowers.

Coral color added.

Only then did I clean my brush, and I used yellow to finish the last flowers. I also used my yellow to make the centers of the rest of the flowers.

Colorful painted flowers on a blue cement retaining wall, surrounded by a flower garden and grass.
Yellow painted.

You could mix your colors to do MANY different colors and shades of flowers, but we were happy with this much. (You might’ve noticed where I missed a green leaf. I did fix that once I was done with my other colors. 😜 We also let my daughter paint a flower…once I had the majority of this done and looking how I wanted.)

Step 5: Outline. Because I wanted a cartoon-y feel, I went back over my outlines with the permanent marker to outline the flowers, leaves, and stems. If you’re painting a lot more detail or going for a more realistic look, you could skip re-outlining everything. This really did help make our flowers pop, though.

A large, cartoon-style flower design painted on a light blue cement wall, featuring orange petals with a yellow center and green stem.
Outline.
Outline.
Colorful flowers painted on a cement wall, featuring red and yellow flowers with green stems against a light blue background.
Outline.

Step 6: Apply a clear sealer. This sealer should also be made specifically for cement. This is definitely an important step to help protect your painting from sun, rain, scratches, etc. it’ll also add a nice shine over the painting.

That’s it! This certainly adds some cute artwork and color where there was bland and unattractive cement before. I also laughed a little bit as I was finishing up because bees started checking out the bright flowers. Guess we’re not the only ones who like it! 😂

Colorful mural of various flowers painted on a cement retaining wall in a backyard, with a light blue background.
AFTER: Pretty painted wall!


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TP Roll Christmas Ornaments

Here is yet another craft idea I found on Pinterest, couldn’t find instructions for, and figured it out myself. It was pretty easy to collect these materials (free!) and easy to make these too. You could make as many as you want, but I used 11 TP rolls and 1 paper towel roll to make 2 angels and 10 flowers.

I also like the variations you could make to these. I used gold tape to add some sparkle, but you could paint them or use stickers or whatever to change the color. I like the simple but pretty look of the “natural” paper color with the light brown/white beads and gold accents, especially because that looks nice around my gold-ornamented Christmas tree.

BEFORE: TP rolls and supplies.

Supplies:

(As an advertising affiliate and Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. But it doesn’t cost you anything extra and helps me keep up my site!)

Step 1: Cut the rolls into rings. For my flowers, I mostly cut the TP rolls into 4 equal sections. I did this by first pushing down on the rolls to flatten them a bit. Then I just used scissors and eyeballed my measurements. If you want to be sure you’re precise, you could use a ruler and mark them into equal parts, then cut.

For the angels, I cut more narrow strips – the same width as the gold tape, so be sure to do that if using colored tape! I didn’t worry about how many narrow strips I cut per TP ring, since I could use the paper towel roll to make up however many I needed after my TP rolls were used up.

Cutting rings.

I also used the paper towel roll to cut some extra pieces to finish off some flowers, so it’s a good idea to leave yourself some extra (whether a TP roll or paper towel roll) if you need more as you go.

Once you’ve got your rolls cut, you’re left with a whole bunch of rings. I grouped them together by width, with my bigger ones in flower piles and smaller ones in piles for my angels. I needed 5 rings for each flower. Each angel needed 1 for the head, 3 for each wing, and 6 to make the 3 bottom skirt parts. It was at this point that I cut up the rest of my paper towel roll to finish off my piles if I needed more. I also had a few extra narrow rings, so I cut enough narrow rings to make a few narrow flowers too.

Grouping rings.

Step 2: Adjust shape/size for certain pieces. First, for my angels’ bottom skirt parts, I cut rings (6 per angel) at one bent side. Then I took pairs of these and connected them together, making bigger rings. I used just a little bit of hot glue to connect the cut ends. This left me 3 larger rings for each angel.

Making bigger pieces.

For the angels’ heads, I took one ring for each and unbent them as much as I could so they were round again.

Step 3: Tape/Color/Decorate angel rings. Next, for each of my bigger angel rings, I took strips of gold tape and ran the tape around the rings evenly before smoothing it on. I did the outside of the rings first, then decided I wanted the insides to have gold tape too, since they were so visible. Running the tape around the inside of the bigger rings was a little tricky for my fingers, but it ended up looking nice.

I also did the outside and inside for each round head piece.

For the angel wings, I only did the outsides of the rings. The insides ended up so squished that you couldn’t see them much anyway, but you could do these insides too, if you want.

Taping rings.

Again, you could paint or color or use glitter or whatever you want for decorating these! I left my flower rings alone during this part, but you could decorate those as well.

Step 4: Assemble the rings into flowers and angels. The flowers were VERY easy to assemble. I took my grouped piles of 5 and arranged them like flowers. Taking my hot glue gun, I smeared on a little glue and held them together, adding one at a time, until they were all connected.

Making flowers.

For the angels, I took the 3 wing parts for each side and glued them together, first the wing at the left side onto the one on the right side, then the next on the left, then the next on the right, then the other on the left, then the other on the right. When all 6 (3 on each side) were together, I added a little glue to the inside of the rings and squeezed to make these ends more smooshed and flat where they met.

Making wings.

For the bottom skirt pieces, I held the ends of the three pieces together to make sure they were even, and then I glued the sides to each other where they met at that end. Either side of the middle piece connects to that side of the side pieces, basically.

Adding bottom to wings.

To connect the bottom to the wings, I glued the undersides of the bottommost ring pieces and stuck the bigger rings against those. I made sure to hold the bottoms all the way up against the wings until the glue dried and held them in place.

Finally, I took the round head piece and glued that on where the wing ends overlapped – like a head on shoulders.

Step 5: Add final decorations. To cover where all the glued wing pieces met, I took a little white ribbon and tied it on to cover the “body” of each angel. This also added little back wings where the ribbon tied.

Adding ribbon.

For the flowers, I took little wooden beads that I had leftover from other projects and glued them on in a number of different ways. For the thicker flowers, I had to decide which side was front and which was back so the beads showed up best at the front. The beads stuck on the TP rolls really well, which was good because I was initially worried about them falling off.

Adding beads.

For other narrower flowers, I took some more of the gold tape in about 1-2 inch strips and stuck that on the ends, folding it over each tip.

Adding tape tips.

Step 6: Add hangers. I used clear fishing line and tied them in loops through a ring of each decoration. You could also use twine or ribbon.

That was it! These turned out pretty cute, considering they were basically free and made from TP rolls! 😂

AFTER: Christmas decorations!


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Mini Present Decorations

I’m a Thanksgiving purist, in that I insist we wait until after thanksgiving before we get all Christmasy. But now that we’re here, I’m onboard with kicking off Christmas!

I’ve had this idea for a while, and fortunately I was at my mom’s house for the weekend – she has a LOT of scrap Christmas paper plus blocks of wood that were perfect. I’ve been saving/hoarding ends of cut wood at our house too, so I’m sure I’ll be making even more of these once I get back to my house. Either way, if you’ve got scrap blocks of wood, odd bits of Christmas paper, and ribbon, this DIY decoration is free and easy to make! You can make as many or as few as you like, too – little stacks are cute, and giant stacks would be cool too.

Supplies:

(As an advertising affiliate and Amazon Associate, I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. But it doesn’t cost you anything extra and helps me keep up my site!)

  • Scrap blocks of wood
  • Scrap Christmas wrapping paper
  • Ribbon
  • Tape and scissors
BEFORE: Scrap wood and wrapping paper.

Step 1: Prep the blocks. If you’ve cut all these blocks, they might have rough edges that need to be sanded down, otherwise the edges might rip through the paper. My mom, fortunately, had sanded these blocks a while ago because she’d originally wanted to make colorful building blocks out of them for my girls.

Step 2: Wrap the blocks. I tried to do 3-4 blocks for each wrapping paper that I had, just to get colorful variety. You could also do these as all the same wrapping paper for a more unified or minimal look.

Very simply, you just wrap the blocks like you would a real present. If you don’t have big enough strips to cover the whole block, I found it was fine if the bottom still showed some exposed wood – you won’t see the undersides anyway.

Wrapping the blocks.
Any size will do!

Step 3: Add ribbon ties. I considered using a hot glue gun to connect each “present” and hold them secure, but the ribbon held them pretty well once it was wrapped around a few times. If you’re doing a giant stack, you might want to hot glue them together to help with stability. Or, if you don’t want ribbon at all, you could glue them for a different t look entirely!

First, I practiced stacking the presents to see what heights I wanted and which paper looked best side by side.

Setting up stacks.

Again, basically wrap the ribbon around the wrapped blocks like you would do for a real present. I found that once I got the ribbons around once tightly, the blocks stayed in place and it was fairly easy to wrap the ribbon up and down and around again to get the look I wanted.

For a few of the stacks, I used bigger, prettier ribbon, and that I only had to put around once. That would look really pretty with fancier wrapping paper, especially with golds or whites. Again, we were going for colorful, but a mom can dream. 🤪

Ribbons on.

Step 4: Set them out! I arranged my stacks on my mom’s little ledge around her staircase, and they look quite cute all sitting together, but we might space them around once other decorations go up. They’d also look cute with garland or greens or lights behind and around them.

AFTER: Mini Present Decorations!

That’s it! I’m glad these look cute, and it was a great way to use all those scrap pieces of wood, not to mention the odd sizes of Christmas wrapping paper that were just waiting for a use.


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