Category: home projects

Wowzers, did this change our living room! 😍

Our bookshelves on either side of our fireplace were overflowing with books, wobbly from the weight, and – while pretty and functional – looked too small for the space. So, I decided to create floor-to-ceiling, custom bookshelves instead. This was one of those projects that took a lot of planning beforehand, but once I had things figured out for one, the second one was much easiest and faster to recreate. And it only took 5 trips to Lowe’s, so that beats my average for a project this big! lol

Note: All of the instructions below are for the bookshelf I did on the left, but I did exactly the same thing for the one on the right, just kind of mirrored. If I learned something better to do while constructing the right one, I included that in my instructions below.

Step 1: Measure, plan, and buy wood. Obviously, your dimensions and the amount of wood you need will be different from what I got, depending on the height of your ceiling and how wide you want your shelves. Also, if you have a straight ceiling rather than a vaulted ceiling, this will be much easier for you! I highly, highly recommend measuring and planning everything out COMPLETELY before buying your wood to save yourself the headache of extra trips, the expense of buying more than you need, etc.

Starting at the left wall/shorter ceiling side, I measured and found that the ceiling right at the corner along the wall was exactly 9 ft. This meant my vertical boards on that side would need to be 9 ft. Because I wanted the whole bookshelf to be 41 inches long, I measured 41 inches out from that left side wall, marked that point, and used a level vertically to find the height at that point on my angled ceiling. That point 41 inches out showed that my right side’s height would be about 9 ft and 10.5 inches. I also knew that I wanted to work with 12-inch wide boards for the shelves themselves, so this would make my bookshelf come out 12 inches from the back wall. Plus, I played around with spacing and decided on 7 shelves total, so that figured into my board shopping list as well.

Okay. So now I knew I needed 10-ft boards for my sides that I could cut down to the right heights – both the 9-ft side and the almost 10-ft side. Because everything going across from side to side would be well under 48 inches, that meant I could use 8-ft boards for everything running lengthwise, and I could cut the number of boards I needed in half that way, by cutting 8-ft boards in half. As for depth, I’d use 12-inch boards (which actually are 11.25 inches) for the shelves. At the front of all this, I’d use 1x4s and 1x2s to cover all the frame and shelf pieces, and since these are actually 0.75 inches, that would bring my whole depth to the 12 inches I wanted without having to add wider or smaller boards anywhere else.

Now, starting with the frame…

To give myself a good bottom frame, I planned to use some scrap 2x4s – one running 40 inches along the back wall, and one running parallel to that one at 11.25 inches out from that wall. The base would only go 40 inches because my right side pieces would attach at the ends of these 2x4s, and eventually all those boards’ width would bring me to the full 41 inches that I wanted for the total length of my bookshelf. Meanwhile, the base would come out 11.25 inches from the wall because this would be exactly the depth of my shelves, including the bottom shelf that would sit right on these 2x4s.

For the frame’s left side, I planned for two 1x4s running from atop the bottom base up to a little shy of where the wall met the ceiling. These two framing 1x4s would be screwed into a stud and/or connected by construction adhesive to the wall. These pieces could be a little short of 9 ft because I wanted room for the top pieces to run all the way to the wall (more on that later).

For the frame’s right side, I’d again use two 1x4s, this time running the full height from the floor to the ceiling. The bottom ends of these 1x4s would screw into the ends of the 2x4s at the bottom base. As for how these framing pieces would attach at the top…

For the frame’s top, I’d take two 40-inch 2x2s and match what I’d done at the bottom – I’d run one along the back wall where it met the ceiling and run one 11.25 inches out from the back wall. However, because these would be angled on my ceiling, I needed to cut the right-sided ends so the angle would work to meet the 1x4s that needed to connect at the right side. I didn’t worry about angling the left ends because they didn’t have to perfectly match where that end touched the wall since this top framing would be hidden by my front boards eventually anyway.

Note: To find this angle… An easy trick that I learned somewhere is to hold a scrap piece of wood where the angled board will need to be, then take a level and hold it vertically at the mark where the board will need to end. By marking a level line on the scrap wood, that gives you a correct line for where the board needs to be cut at that angle. You can then cut this scrap wood along that line, and by holding this little piece of wood as a template against each board that needs to be cut at that angle, you can easily duplicate that angle over and over.

For the frame’s back, I wanted a 2×2 horizontally going across to help support each shelf and to connect my back right side piece of the frame. These could be screwed into studs on that back wall, plus I’d use construction adhesive. This meant I needed six 2x2s placed at each height where I wanted my shelves, with my bottom base acting as the support for the very bottom shelf.

At this point, it was very helpful to draw a line all the way up my wall to mark 40 inches out, where all these frame pieces needed to reach. HOWEVER, you shouldn’t just keep measuring 40 inches from the back corner because (as I discovered quickly) walls are not always level. Our wall dipped out around the middle and would have thrown off everything if I’d just measured 40 inches to get my line. Instead, I measured from where my bottom base needed to come out 40 inches, and then I used a level to draw my line all the way up, checking occasionally to see that it was close to 40 inches from the corner.

For the shelves and sides…

I didn’t want to see or even use hardware at all, instead resting each shelf on boards running up the sides along the insides of my frame. This allowed me to use the same 1×12 boards for both the shelves and these solid side pieces spacing out between the shelves. The height of each side piece would depend on how much space I wanted between the shelves, but one 8-foot board would easily get me at least one shelf and two sides.

For the front pieces, as I said above, I’d use 1x4s along the sides and the very top to hide the frame, the ends of the shelves, and also the interior side pieces holding up the shelves. The tops of the front pieces running up the sides would have to be cut to angle along my ceiling, and then the top crosspiece would have to be cut to fit between those pieces. SO, be sure to keep that little piece of wood as a template to trace onto these front boards. As for the front pieces on each shelf, I’d use 1x2s cut to the exact lengths of my shelves between the left and right front pieces running vertically.

That was my plan! Confusing? Here’s a picture to help.

On Valentine’s Day, my husband and I went to Lowe’s and bought all the 1x12x8s (shelves and sides), 2x2x8s (top and back frame pieces), 1x2x8s (nice front pieces), 1x4x10s (left and right side pieces as well as nice front pieces), and 1x12x10s (covering side pieces) that my Jeep could carry. Really, it was the best date we’ve had in years.

Step 2: Remove old floor and mark final guides/lines on walls. Before you build anything, remove the old flooring so you’re working on a solid, level surface. Also remove the baseboard so everything will go flush against the walls. I started by using a cutting multitool to remove the baseboard 41 inches out along the back wall and 12 inches out along the left side wall. For the floor, I used painters tape to mark the area – again, 41 inches x 12 inches. Then I used the same multitool to cut out the old flooring along my taped lines.

Removing our laminate flooring is always very satisfying. But it’s dusty, so be sure to clean that all up before you start using adhesive.

Also at this time, I made double-sure that the vertical line I’d made on the back wall was 40 inches from the corner BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY level all the way up. After that, I used a level to make horizontal lines on the back wall where each 2×2 would be placed to support each shelf. One end started at the corner, and the other end touched that vertical line at 40 inches. Also on that back wall, I used a stud finder and marked stud lines all the way up so the studs would be easy to find when attaching those horizontal 2x2s. Next, I marked on the left wall 11.25 inches out from the back wall. I again used a level and made a guide line vertically going up the left wall at 11.25 inches. Where that line hit the ceiling, I made a mark to show where the top 2×2 should run in a line along the ceiling, again at 11.25 inches out from the back wall. How long was this line? I used a square from the back wall’s line (that 40-inch mark line) and found where my ceiling line should connect that far, at 40 3/4 inches because of the angle.

Basically, I outlined where my frame should sit along the walls and ceiling so that everything would be level and square without having to double-check before placing each piece.

Step 3: Build the frame. Starting at the bottom, I cut two 2×4 pieces to 40 inches. I used construction adhesive on the bottom and back side of the 2×4 that I set along the back wall, and I made sure the end was tight against the left wall. To really secure it in place, I screwed it into the floor as well. For the second 2×4, I measured using a square and marked the floor at 11.25 inches out from the back of the back 2×4 against the wall. Then I glued that front 2×4 down along that line so the very front was 11.25 inch out from the back. I also screwed this one into place.

Next I did the left side. I ended up cutting the 1x4x10s down to closer to 8 1/2 feet to leave quite a bit of room for the top frame 2x2s, and that’ll all make sense a little later. After putting construction adhesive on the backsides of the 1x4s, I pushed one into the wall against the very back corner, with the bottom end resting on the 2×4 along the back wall. I had a stud to work with in the corner, so I added a few screws on the way up to help attach it to the wall too. With that back board in, I put construction adhesive on the second 1×4, set this front 1×4 on the front 2×4, made sure it lined up level with the vertical line I’d marked on the wall, and pressed it into place. I also added a few screws to this board, but they were really just there to help hold it in place while the adhesive dried – without a stud, the screws here don’t do much heavy lifting.

Next, I measured what was left of the horizontal lines on my back wall. With the left back 1×4 in place, I still had 39.25 inches of my original 40-inch lines. So, that’s what I cut six 2x2s down to – 39.25 inches each. For each of these, I put construction adhesive on the back side, pushed them in place at my lines, and then screwed them into my studs where I’d marked the stud lines. I paid very close attention to the right ends of these 2x2s because they needed to be exactly even along the 40-inch marked line so that the right frame piece would sit flat and level against these supporting ends.

Once I had those six 2x2s going along the back wall, I measured for the very top one that would create the top of the frame along the ceiling. This was where I had to cut the right end of a 2×2 at my angle so everything would line up, but first I measured from the left corner to where my 40-inches line was marked, just to be safe. This was 40 3/4 inches because of the angle. This meant that the longest part of my cut angle needed to be that length with the bottom part of the cut angle slightly shorter. (The picture makes more sense of this.) Taking my scrap piece of wood with my exact angle, I placed it over my 2×2 at the appropriate length and traced a line, then cut at that line. I did this for both the front and back 2x2s for the top pieces of the frame. Honestly, these were probably the two hardest boards to install because I had to hold them over my head while on a ladder, and it was hard to see my marks on our textured ceiling. But with construction adhesive on the tops, they stayed on well enough for me to screw them in place, again making sure the right ends touched my 40-inch marks. I did end up putting an 8.5 inch 2×2 between these two top pieces to connect the right ends, as this helped to keep the front one in place since the back one was screwed into studs.

Finally, I added the 1x4s to the right side to complete the frame. Starting with the back one, I cut it to 118.25 inches to stretch floor to ceiling. Setting the base against the side/end of the back 2×4, I made sure the side of the 1×4 was flush against the back wall and the inside was flush against each 2×2’s end at that 40-inch line. Then, I screwed the 1×4 into the 2×4. Working my way up, I put a screw through the 1×4 into each 2×2, including the one at the very top that was angled to sit flat against the 1×4. With that on, I cut the front 1×4 to the same length and set it to line up with the end of the front 2×4. I checked with a level, then screwed it onto the 2×4. Climbing my ladder and carefully holding the board, I lined it up with the top 2×2 and again checked for level before screwing it into that 2×2 as well as the 8.5 inch crosspiece, since it was there anyway.

That was it for the frame. This frame is really just for holding everything to walls and giving the rest of the build the correct spacing. I know that 1x4s might seem a little flimsy for a “frame,”but all the other boards that attach to it add the stability and strength, so don’t worry!

Step 4: Install shelves and side pieces. Starting at the bottom (this is important!), I double-checked how long each shelf needed to be to run from the left 1x4s to the right 1x4s. Again, like my back 2x2s that these shelves would sit in, they needed to be about 39.25 inches long. I say “about” because you have a little wiggle room here as far as spacing. The ends will be covered entirely, so if you’re off a little it won’t show.

I cut a few shelf boards at a time to make my life easier, and because these are the first boards we’ve used that are going to really show, I made sure to sand the corners and any rough bits. However, because the fronts of the shelves are going to be covered by front 1x2s, they don’t have to be perfect.

Starting with the bottom, I set my shelf board on top of the 2x4s and made sure the front edge lined up, which it did because these are 11.25 inches wide, just like my base. The board should also, therefore, line up with the front edge and back edge of the 1x4s on either side. I secured this bottom shelf with a few small nails from my brad gun. HOWEVER, do not nail down the rest of the shelves in case you need wiggle room later.

And now I’m going to tell you what I did at this point when building my second bookshelf on the right side of the fireplace because it made this step much easier and faster. 😆 Before measuring and cutting for the side pieces that would rise on the insides of the bookshelf on top of this first shelf, I took my level and set it along the side 1x4s while resting on the back 2×2. Once level, I drew a line on the front 1×4 to mark where the next shelf should sit to be level. I did this for each 2×2, marking both the left and right side 1x4s to mark where each shelf should sit. Then, with my bottom shelf on, I could measure from the top of that shelf to the marked line to know how tall each side piece needed to be that the next shelf would sit on. (Again, see picture for clarification.)

My first shelf needed to be 17.5 inches tall to fit over our electrical outlet, so I cut two pieces of 1×12 to that length. To make these pieces fit around the back 2×2, I used a jigsaw and cut out the top corner – one for the left side board and one for the right side board. I thought this would create more hassle and be difficult, but it really wasn’t bad at all. With these pieces sanded, I slid them in place on top of the bottom shelf, made sure they ran up to the level lines I’d marked at the left and right, and then used my brad nailer to secure them to the insides of the 1x4s.

I set the next shelf on the back 2×2 and also on the tops of these added side pieces, and the shelf sat perfectly level and sturdy. Then I measured from the top of that shelf to the next marked level line, and these left and right pieces needed to be 15.25 inches for that shelf’s height. I cut these pieces, notched them with my jigsaw, sanded them, slid them in place, nailed them on, and moved on to the next shelf.

I did that all the way up for each shelf.

For the very top, I measured to cover the whole top base, similar to how I’d done the bottom shelf on the 2x4s. I did NOT worry about angling this board, because the ends were going to be covered anyway. I cut this board to 40 3/4 inches, and I put the left end right against the wall with the higher right end against where the 2×2 connected with the 1×4. I nailed this board onto the 2x2s. Next, I measured the space that was left between that top board and the highest shelf. My left side was 5.5 inches, and this board did not need to be notched with a jigsaw because there was no back 2×2 to worry about. I slid this in place and nailed it onto the left 1x4s, and this board also helps hold the top piece in place a bit should it ever wiggle free (I don’t foresee this happening, but it seemed a good idea to be safe). For the right side, I found it was 10.25 inches, so I cut that board and nailed it in place too.

Note: If you want to be fancy, you can cut the tops of these side pieces to match the angle of the top board, but I wasn’t going to mess with that. It was easy enough to fill the small gap with caulk later, and it’s so high up there that you can’t tell anyway, so it didn’t seem worth the hassle.

Step 5: Add exterior side board. With the shelves and side pieces in place, I took a long 1×12 board and cut it to 118.25 inches. This was by far the easiest board to install! After setting it on the floor against the outside of the frame’s 1x4s, I held it level against the front 1×4 and nailed it onto the 1x4s all the way up. There was a little gap at the top because of the angled ceiling, but this was later easily filled by caulk to hide it. If you wanna be fancy and cut the angle, be my guest.

Step 6: Add front/covering pieces. All that was left to attach now were my front cover pieces of nicer 1x4s and 1x2s.

For the tall pieces running up either side, I DID angle the tops by using the wood template I’d made earlier – just be careful to turn it the right way! Because these will be touched a lot, I made sure to sand the corners really well on the sides that would be exposed. I added these side pieces first, with the left one against the left wall – checking for level before nailing it on – while the right one stood level and flush with the far exterior 1×12’s edge. Obviously these come in a little farther than the frame boards, and this helps to cover the ends of the shelves too.

Next, I did the very top board that runs lengthwise between these side pieces. I was going to be all particular and find my angles the usual way by measuring and using my template, but I ended up cutting a board close to the right length and then holding it over the front side pieces, taking a pencil, and reaching behind to draw a line at either end where it needed to be cut to line up. Once this was cut, I held it in place and nailed it onto the top 2×2.

Finally, I measured each shelf between these side boards to find my exact length for each 1×2 before cutting. This was a little time-consuming to do it one at a time, but I wanted them as tight as possible to look best. After playing with the position a bit, I decided to attach them with about a quarter of an inch sticking up above each shelf to make a little lip. I positioned them this high, stuck one brad nail in the center, and then used a level before nailing either end too.

Note: If your shelves aren’t quite level, using these covers and making them level is a great way to hide where you’re a bit off. Also, if your shelves don’t come out as far as they should, now is definitely the time to adjust them and pull them forward so they’re lined up with this front 1×2. I’m glad I waited until this point to be sure of their position, but now is when I finally nailed them into the back 2×2 once they were lined up.

That was finally it for building!

Step 7: Add base trim. As a finishing touch to the built-in look, I added some quarter round molding like what’s around the rest of our room’s baseboards. This helped cover the little gaps between the base and the flooring, and it pulled it all together to look like the shelves were always meant to be a part of the room. I also put back some of the baseboard that had popped off earlier.

Step 8: Caulk, fill nail holes, and paint. One other thing I did here was to drill holes into the two bottom shelves to allow cords to go down along the back to reach our outlet in the back wall. Definitely do this before painting, if you’ve got a similar setup.

Anyway, I first took wood nail filler and rubbed it into all my little nail holes.

Next, using paintable caulk, I used a caulk gun and oozed caulk along all my edges and gaps. I caulked where the front pieces met the side wall and ceiling. I caulked where the shelves each met the back wall, I caulked along each 2×2. I caulked those gaps at the tops of boards that met the ceiling. I caulked the insides of the shelves where the side pieces met at the top and bottom of each, as well as at the notched 2×2 spots. This was very time-consuming but made a HUGE different in the end result. It took the bookshelf from looking like a separate bookshelf to looking like a built-in bookshelf.

It also helps to remember that this caulking step forgives a lot if you’ve got wonky, unlevel walls. This wasn’t much of a problem with my left bookshelf, but our wall on the right side of the fireplace was VERY bowed and left all kinds of gaps – the price I paid for making my shelves level, I guess.

Once all the caulk dried, I painted the whole bookshelf the same color as our surrounding walls – Swiss Coffee. You could paint them any color, really, but it definitely looks better to paint rather than stain the wood. Why? One of the benefits of building the shelves the way I did was that I didn’t need wood along the back, and the wall itself really looks like part of the shelves because it’s all the same color. This wouldn’t really work if you stained the wood. (Also, I wanted the same paint as our walls l because I had about a quarter of my gallon left after I was done with both shelves, and I went around my house and “un-toddlered” my poor walls by giving them a fresh coat of paint. 😆)

Honestly, these turned out even better than I’d expected! Somehow, though, we still have too many books. 🤣

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